I am at my ‘half way point’ in my Fulbright. I have been here three months and have learned more than I can possibly write in this blog. My learning is formal, informal and through the various trips we’ve taken throughout the country.
Formal Learning
When I arrived I imagined I’d throw out the call for to mixed race families and begin interviews. Interestingly, many people declined being interviewed. Just yesterday I learned that another woman was unwilling to participate because “the memories are just too painful.” Of course, there is story in the pain caused by years of apartheid. But, that’s for another project. I had to switch gears a bit and then everywhere I looked I began to see interesting sociological questions. Why has the white student body dropped from 6800 to 3400 in the past six years at UKZN? What is the furor over the change of street names from their current names to ANC aligned names? Forunately, I have wonderful colleagues here who are likewise interested in these questions. We are collaborating in research and developing new understandings of the processes of racialization in post-Apartheid South Africa. I have gained insights from a variety of colleagues. This is the piece I signed on for, but I have gotten so much more.
Informal Learning
In mid-March UKZN and Roosevelt University signed an agreement to make possible student exchanges between our universities. During the signing at UKZN, President Middleton and I (along with many folks from UKZN) were treated to a wonderful luncheon. The very next day a student protest began on campus. The central issues included livable housing, rather than forcing four students to live in a room with one bed near an area known for drugs and prostitution. Another issue was the need for students to get their food stipends so they could eat. Two months into the year and some students still didn’t have funds for food. By the next week, the police had been called to campus to stop the protesters (who had taken to disrupting classes and ‘closing’ buildings). The police arrived, shot at students with rubber bullets, tear gas and hit with their clubs. It seemed clear to me in that moment, this was a case of police harassment on behalf of the university. And, it was, indeed. But, there was much more to the story and this is when my learning began anew. Apparently, the ANC (in an election year) was prominent in the protest (as indicated by the yellow t-shirts worn by protesters). The mixing of the pressing issues facing students and national political campaign was disturbing. Throughout, the faculty was left to decide if they’d continue holding classes or not. Many did not. Seeing students stand up for their basic human rights was inspiring. Seeing the lack of mentoring of student activists about how to run a successful protest was frustrating. Watching the issues get lost in the discussions of the fall out was so disappointing. At the moment, the protests have stopped, band-aids have been laid, but the underlying issues remain unresolved.
Another piece of learning involves the use of the day and the racialization of work and space (some is similar to the U.S., just much more stark). Durbanites seem to move with the sun. It rises, they rise. It sets and the streets are mostly still. Given the state of fear governing KwaZulu-Natal (other parts of South Africa, too, but I best know KZN), it is not unreasonable that people don’t want to be out walking past when the street lights come on. We have gone out after dark, of course, but only by car. Other folks arrive places (destinations only, please, no wandering allowed) in cars (this immediately regulates the social class of people at particular events -- car ownership is a sign of middle-classedness). Car guards are willing to ‘watch your car’ while you’re away. Each car guard works a specific area. They ‘help’ with parking and stay around to make sure no one messes with the car (it really is a good thing). In return they get about 2 rand per car (or 20 cents). On a good day they ‘rake in’ 60 rand ($6.00). Many of the car guards are immigrants from other African countries. In the past few weeks I have noticed more white car guards, mostly Afrikaners, who have found themselves left out of the formal economy without the social uplift policies of Apartheid. One particularly insightful graduate student at UKZN is writing her thesis on the Afrikaner car guards.
I make sure I leave campus by 5 each night (at the latest) so that I am not walking home in the dark. The other night as I passed through the security gate (IDs are needed to get in and out), I notice a white security guard. The next day I was giving a lecture to a Race class (of 170!) and the students (mostly black) were laughing at how funny it was to see a white security guard at Gate 3. Underpaid with long hours, that job has traditionally been saved for blacks.
The students’ laughter reflects their insight into the ways that inequality is racialized and that history, no matter how dramatic a turn it takes, has yet to undone the injustices.
Planned Trips
We have traveled throughout KwaZulu-Natal and the Eastern Cape. In May we are traveling through the Western Cape and Cape Town. We are trying to see as much as possible. I understand so much more about the history of conquest, colonization, ethnic struggle and survival as we travel from cities to rural areas and back. South Africa has got to be, geographically, the most beautiful and interesting country I have ever visited. The mountains are breathtaking and the waves from the Indian Ocean are magnificent (and they don’t have hurricanes!). We have traveled into Lesotho’s highlands (Lesotho sits entirely within South Africa). We met a family and learned about how they live and survive the cold and snow in the winter (without wood or coal for fires, they use cow dung) and access necessary resources. Throughout our stay we’ve learned about animals, birds, trees, flowers, architecture, rock formations, imperialism, poverty, corrupt politics, and survival. We have learned so much about the histories and cultures of various groups: Zulus, Xhosas, Vendis, Afrikaners, English speaking South Africans and Indians South Africans. My kids are forever changed because of their richer understanding of the world, local cultures and languages, and politics (Just this morning we had another conversation about Jacob Zuma and Helen Zille). They have been learning about the U.S. through a South African lens, something every U.S. citizen should have a chance to do: see how others in the world see us.
On the Fulbright
I am feeling a bit like a paid advertisement, but I want to emphasize that this is a great program. If you are even thinking about going somewhere to do research in a way that will strengthen your expertise and all you do in your career at Roosevelt University, then you should apply.
Formal Learning
When I arrived I imagined I’d throw out the call for to mixed race families and begin interviews. Interestingly, many people declined being interviewed. Just yesterday I learned that another woman was unwilling to participate because “the memories are just too painful.” Of course, there is story in the pain caused by years of apartheid. But, that’s for another project. I had to switch gears a bit and then everywhere I looked I began to see interesting sociological questions. Why has the white student body dropped from 6800 to 3400 in the past six years at UKZN? What is the furor over the change of street names from their current names to ANC aligned names? Forunately, I have wonderful colleagues here who are likewise interested in these questions. We are collaborating in research and developing new understandings of the processes of racialization in post-Apartheid South Africa. I have gained insights from a variety of colleagues. This is the piece I signed on for, but I have gotten so much more.
Informal Learning
In mid-March UKZN and Roosevelt University signed an agreement to make possible student exchanges between our universities. During the signing at UKZN, President Middleton and I (along with many folks from UKZN) were treated to a wonderful luncheon. The very next day a student protest began on campus. The central issues included livable housing, rather than forcing four students to live in a room with one bed near an area known for drugs and prostitution. Another issue was the need for students to get their food stipends so they could eat. Two months into the year and some students still didn’t have funds for food. By the next week, the police had been called to campus to stop the protesters (who had taken to disrupting classes and ‘closing’ buildings). The police arrived, shot at students with rubber bullets, tear gas and hit with their clubs. It seemed clear to me in that moment, this was a case of police harassment on behalf of the university. And, it was, indeed. But, there was much more to the story and this is when my learning began anew. Apparently, the ANC (in an election year) was prominent in the protest (as indicated by the yellow t-shirts worn by protesters). The mixing of the pressing issues facing students and national political campaign was disturbing. Throughout, the faculty was left to decide if they’d continue holding classes or not. Many did not. Seeing students stand up for their basic human rights was inspiring. Seeing the lack of mentoring of student activists about how to run a successful protest was frustrating. Watching the issues get lost in the discussions of the fall out was so disappointing. At the moment, the protests have stopped, band-aids have been laid, but the underlying issues remain unresolved.
Another piece of learning involves the use of the day and the racialization of work and space (some is similar to the U.S., just much more stark). Durbanites seem to move with the sun. It rises, they rise. It sets and the streets are mostly still. Given the state of fear governing KwaZulu-Natal (other parts of South Africa, too, but I best know KZN), it is not unreasonable that people don’t want to be out walking past when the street lights come on. We have gone out after dark, of course, but only by car. Other folks arrive places (destinations only, please, no wandering allowed) in cars (this immediately regulates the social class of people at particular events -- car ownership is a sign of middle-classedness). Car guards are willing to ‘watch your car’ while you’re away. Each car guard works a specific area. They ‘help’ with parking and stay around to make sure no one messes with the car (it really is a good thing). In return they get about 2 rand per car (or 20 cents). On a good day they ‘rake in’ 60 rand ($6.00). Many of the car guards are immigrants from other African countries. In the past few weeks I have noticed more white car guards, mostly Afrikaners, who have found themselves left out of the formal economy without the social uplift policies of Apartheid. One particularly insightful graduate student at UKZN is writing her thesis on the Afrikaner car guards.
I make sure I leave campus by 5 each night (at the latest) so that I am not walking home in the dark. The other night as I passed through the security gate (IDs are needed to get in and out), I notice a white security guard. The next day I was giving a lecture to a Race class (of 170!) and the students (mostly black) were laughing at how funny it was to see a white security guard at Gate 3. Underpaid with long hours, that job has traditionally been saved for blacks.
The students’ laughter reflects their insight into the ways that inequality is racialized and that history, no matter how dramatic a turn it takes, has yet to undone the injustices.
Planned Trips
We have traveled throughout KwaZulu-Natal and the Eastern Cape. In May we are traveling through the Western Cape and Cape Town. We are trying to see as much as possible. I understand so much more about the history of conquest, colonization, ethnic struggle and survival as we travel from cities to rural areas and back. South Africa has got to be, geographically, the most beautiful and interesting country I have ever visited. The mountains are breathtaking and the waves from the Indian Ocean are magnificent (and they don’t have hurricanes!). We have traveled into Lesotho’s highlands (Lesotho sits entirely within South Africa). We met a family and learned about how they live and survive the cold and snow in the winter (without wood or coal for fires, they use cow dung) and access necessary resources. Throughout our stay we’ve learned about animals, birds, trees, flowers, architecture, rock formations, imperialism, poverty, corrupt politics, and survival. We have learned so much about the histories and cultures of various groups: Zulus, Xhosas, Vendis, Afrikaners, English speaking South Africans and Indians South Africans. My kids are forever changed because of their richer understanding of the world, local cultures and languages, and politics (Just this morning we had another conversation about Jacob Zuma and Helen Zille). They have been learning about the U.S. through a South African lens, something every U.S. citizen should have a chance to do: see how others in the world see us.
On the Fulbright
I am feeling a bit like a paid advertisement, but I want to emphasize that this is a great program. If you are even thinking about going somewhere to do research in a way that will strengthen your expertise and all you do in your career at Roosevelt University, then you should apply.
